Hey there! I’m happy if you’ve stuck around this far : ) Here we’re going to sew the jacket together, up to the point that you’re ready to embellish it with a zipper, the cuffs, bias tape and lace trims, and a cute little bow for the back.
Just to reiterate some points about materials needed (also added to pt. 1)
- I used about 1.75 meters of fabric (1.9 yds) for my jacket which is Size 10; more fabric will be needed for larger sizes and/or other alterations done by yourself :)
- The above meterage/yardage does NOT include:
- 1.0 meter of lightweight fusible interfacing for pattern parts 1 (x4 cut out), 7 (x1), and 3 (flap before modification)
- About 20 cm (~8”) white cotton twill for cuffs
- 12” (30cm) zipper x1 (seperable; lightweight is good)
- Red Extra Wide dbl fold Bias Tape; 2 pkgs
- Black Extra Wide dbl fold Bias Tape: 1 pkg
- Black Dbl Fold Bias Tape (reg thickness): 1pkg
- about 2-2.6 meters (2.2-2.9 yds) of lace trim for lower edge and cuffs (2 for size 10, increasing amounts for larger sizes)
Now onto the instructions. I essentially followed the pattern instructions with minor changes to accommodate for the new lower hemline, front closure, and sleeves; therefore, this tutorial is heavy on text and somewhat sparse on pictures except where I felt it useful. The pattern instructions contain helpful images. If it’d be helpful for anyone to have a particular step illustrated or explained in more detail, please let me know :)
At the bottom are definitions for asterisked sewing terms/techniques used.
Pattern pieces are indicated by a numerical value in brackets next to their title.
Deviations from original pattern instructions are indicated by italicized font.
- Trim lower hemline of FRONT (1) and SIDE FRONT (2) along new cutting line
- Apply interfacing to FRONT (1) and staystitch* the neck edge.
- With RIGHT sides together, stitch FRONT (1) to SIDE FRONT(2) at side front seams, matching notches and lower edges. Press seam towards FRONT (1)
- Apply interfacing to flap
- With right sides together, stitch facing to flap.
- Measure 5/8” down from top of flap. Draw a line at this measurement; taper corners upwards slightly. Backstitch on tapered lines to reinforce them.
- Stitch again 1/4” away from first seam line. Trim seam down; clip upper corners along raw edge. Turn flap inside out; press so that facing is hidden.
- Baste 5/8” from raw edge
- On outside, pin flap to front, placing basting line along flap line [match to front piece (1), remove markings from side front (2)]
- Place both front halves together and peek inside to ensure flaps line up with each other (are mirror images)
- Stitch along basting, backstitching at edges. Trim close to seam; press flap down so stitching is hidden. Top stitch close to flap top to fix in place.
- With RIGHT sides together, stitch center back seam of BACK (4). Staystitch neck edge of back.
- Stitch BACK (4) to SIDE BACK (5), matching notches. Press seam towards back.
- Fold in half along center back seam; trim along hemline for BACK (4) only.
You’ll notice that the hemline you drew on SIDE BACK (5) doesn’t quite match up to the cut made on (4). this is fine; you can redraw the line from where the cut on (4) ends or simply freehand cut up to the eventual side seam of your top. As long as you’ve got a smooth cut made for the hemline that matches the ‘\/’ shape of the uniform reference, it’s all good :)
FRONT AND BACK + FACINGS
- Stitch front to back at shoulder and side seams. Try on jacket shell; ensure the front overlaps slightly and the sleeveholes sit right on your shoulders.
- Apply interfacing to FRONT FACING (remaining pieces of (1)) and BACK FACING (7). Stitch shoulder seams as shown. Trim FRONT FACING lower edges along new hemline.
- Edgefinish* inner notched edge of front facing and lower unnotched edge of back facing.
- With RIGHT sides together, pin facing to garment, matching centers back and shoulder seams.
- Stitch front edge with a 3/8” seam allowance; stitch neck edge on front and back with 5/8” seam allowance.
- Trim seam allowance to 3/8”. Trim corners; clip curves.
- Understitch* facing as far as possible; take it in sections if needed. Understitch starting from one front seam as far as you can; then follow the front neckline until the shoulder seam; stitch the back neckline, stopping at shoulder seam; then the other front neckline as far as you can, finishing with the other center front seam.
- Turn facing to inside; press so that the necklines and center fronts look pretty. Trim the lower corner of the facing so that the lower hemline hides it. Pin your front (1) facing’s lower edge to your FRONT (1) piece; baste together. Your facing should be clean flush with piece (1) without looseness, puckering, etc.
- IGNORE WHAT THE PATTERN SAYS ABOUT EDGE FINISHING AND HEMMING! Leave the lower edge of your jacket raw; you’ll be finishing it with bias tape and any hemming you could do will just be a headache and a half.
- Pin facing along armholes; baste armhole edges together.
This part was so fun :D
Here’s where a lot of the pictures come in. You’ll need your SLEEVE (8) and your PUFF SLEEVE pieces. I used black thread to show contrast and make it clearer where I’d stitched.
- First of all, measure up from the notches on your SLEEVE 1.5” and mark. Draw a line across the sleeve on the RIGHT side; this is a placement line.
- Use long machine stitches along the lower edge of your PUFF SLEEVE pieces. Pull bobbin threads to gather the puff sleeve along bottom; place with RIGHT SIDES together on top of sleeve, ‘upside down’ ensuring that when flipped up the upper edge notches will match; match gathered lower edge to placement line. Pin in place.
- Baste across the gathering line; keep stitching straight.
- Flip up, seeing if the puff-sleeve portion matches along the side and top-curve. If it does, stitch with regular machine stitches along the gathering. Remove gathering (a pain in the ass, I know, but it looks nicer IMO). Stitch again, 1/4” ABOVE stitching. Trim your seam.
- Flip puff sleeve up; match up sides and pin. Baste together, 1/4” from raw edge.
- Match top curve on PUFF SLEEVE to top curve on SLEEVE (8), matching notches and dots.
- Baste along top curve; stitch.
From here on out you basically follow the pattern instructions, ignoring what they say about hemming again:
- Ease stitch* top of sleeve between dots.
- Place right sides together along underarm seam, matching notches and lower edges. Baste along top (puff sleeve) to upper notches; stitch entire length with 5/8” seam. Stitch again on seam 1/2” from raw edge; trim seam allowance.
- Turn sleeve right side out. Hold garment WRONG side out with armhole towards you. With right sides together, pin sleeve to armhole edge with center small dot at shoulder seam, matching underarm seams, notches, and remaining small dots. Pull up ease stitches to fit.
- To distribute fullness evenly, slide fabric of sleeve up slightly so that there are no puckers or tucks on the seam line. Baste a 5/8” seam. Try on your jacket in the mirror and check that both sleeves appear balanced on your arms; also test to ensure the jacket can ‘close’ along the front without straining your shoulders, stretching, tightness, etc.
- Stitch the armhole edges with a 5/8” seam; stitch again 1/8” from first stitching. Trim seam allowance.
*Staystitching: stitch with regular stitch length 1/2” from cut edge
*Edgefinish: Neaten raw edges of seams, hems, and facings by:
- Stitching 1/4” from edge, turning under along stitching and pressing. Stitch again.
- Using a zig-zag or overlock stitch on your machine or serger
*Understitch: Press facing away from garment; press seam towards facing. Facing side up, stitch close to seam through facing and seam allowances. When you turn the facing to the inside, the understitching will give a clean edge so only the ‘nice side’ of the fabric shows from the exterior viewpoint. Here is a very nice, helpful tutorial demonstrating how to do it :)
*Easestitch: Use long machine stitches. Stitch 5/8” from raw edge.; stitch again 1/2” from raw edge. Pull on bobbin threads when required to gather up fabric.
YOU. ARE. DONE! Fluff out the puff sleeves, a little if you so desire; the puff should be around the lower edge. I found it totally cool how gathering the lower edge of the puff sleeve made the top curve/sides fit as well.
PART 3 will cover adding the zipper in, bias tape trim (black around the top, red along the bottom and cuffs), the lace, and the tiny bow to be put at the back :)
Unfortunately I have no tutorial to show how to put the zipper in the front opening, nor on adding bias tape and lace. However, I can give a general overview of how I underwent those processes!
I recommend using a seperable zipper, or an invisible zipper, and - don’t kill me for this - HAND STITCHING. This is because unless you have the skillset to install the seperable zipper between the front fabric and the facing, you will have visible stitching on the front opening of your jacket - and I didn’t want that! Handstitching took a while, it’s true, but my jacket had a really nice, clean opening with no visible stitches :)
- Will allow you to completely undo the front opening for an easier time getting the costume piece on
- Requires a higher level of skill in matching the two sides to ensure you don’t make your jacket lopsided!
- May require shortening
- Chances of stitches or zipper itself being visible are higher; front edge may not be finished as cleanly.
- Will require you to put the jacket on more like a shirt (you cannot fully unzip the front)
- Requires slightly less skill to ensure sides aren’t lopsided
- may require shortening
- Must be installed upside down so that you can get it over your head properly! If you have it so you unzip it towards the bottom hemline, you won’t be able to fit the jacket over your shoulders.
- May have a much cleaner finish to the front since the zipper itself should not be visible if installed correctly : )
If you need further assistance with installing a zipper, I recommend looking it up in a sewing manual (such as the Singer Complete Photo Guide to Sewing) or googling zipper techniques specific to the type of zipper you bought and what you need to do.
To accomodate for the cuffs, measure the lowermost edge of your sleeve (down by the wrist opening) and cut a rectangle of your pure-white fabric that has both seam allowances and is VERY slightly wider than the measurement of your wrist by about 1/2 inch total, or 1/4 inch on each side; this will ensure that the cuff section is slightly larger overall and will “float” on the wrist section adequately.
Stitch your side seam with a 5/8” seam allowance. Finish one edge with red bias tape, and stitch lace on by hand (as discussed below). The other edge attaches to the sleeve.
Slip the cuff inside your sleeve, raw edges matching WRONG SIDES OF SLEEVE MATCHING RIGHT SIDE OF CUFF so that you can turn the cuff inside out and up towards the puff and it will have the ‘nice side’ showing. Stitch; stitch again close and trim allowance. Flip cuff out; you shoud be able to see the seam from the right side of your sleeve. Turn cuff up, leaving a small amount near wrist so that the seam is hidden, and press around the fold @ the wrist.
Installing the bias tape was fairly simple! I did a black bias tape around the neckline according to the artwork references I used, and a red bias tape around the cuffs and the lower hemline. Please note that the bias tape must go on before your lace trim : )
There are rather a lot of angles on the lower hem, but luckily if you know how to use bias tape (or are willing to try learning a new skil!) you can turn corners pretty easily, regardless of whether it’s an inside or outside angle. Here are some external tutorials on applying bias tape both normally (on straight edges) or on corners!
Taeliac also has wonderful tutorials, including one on applying bias tape that I used at the time.
The lace was also surprisingly simple : ) You need to measure each section of the lower hemline and cut a piece of lace; I cut mine so that there was no awkward break in the pattern, since the lace I got at fabricland has lovely ‘points’ similar in size and scale to those on the Madoka uniforms themselves. Once you have each section cut, hand stitch it at key points (I usually did about 5 stitches per ‘triangle’, which adds up to a lot but secured everything wonderfully!) so that from the right side you see only the parts of the lace that you want to!
Once you’ve gotten these three design components figured out, make a tiny bow from a scrap of the same fabric as your jacket. Secure it by hand to the back of your jacket, after marking for placement with tailors chalk :) I miniaturized the techniques used in this tutorial by Taeliac to make mine, and rounded off the edges.
Hopefully you found this useful! Best of luck at Mitakihara Junior High ;D